Retinol/Vitamin A

When it comes to skincare, some products are incredibly effective and can change the skin, and some do not. This is all about having active ingredients in those products and not only that, they need to be bioavailable to your skin. As skin is the largest organ, its cells are always in communication with other cells. This constant cellular communication ensures that they function properly.

Let us look at Vitamin A. Other names include retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl acetate, and retinaldehyde. It is one of the chattiest of all skin ingredients and for sure the most important molecular signaller. It fires off chemical messages all of the time. Of course all cells converse all day, every day, but it is what Vitamin A says that makes it so special.

Vitamin A constantly signals to cells to do the following:

Replicate accurately
Behave normally
Repair that broken DNA
You are damaged, do not replicate
Fix the cell to ensure correct colour and texture of skin
Do not replicate and self destruct

Skin is constantly in a state of growth, change, cell death, and reproduction. This is the life of skin. From those fresh stem cells that start the lifecycle of the skin, as they go through their own life cycle and programmed cell death (apoptosis), how do we keep the skin behaving correctly?

If we look at ageing, I often describe it in terms of a photocopy. If a picture gets photocopied repeatedly, you will see the sharpness decline and the lines blur. Compared to the original document, it will look different. If you think about how our cells are constantly dividing and making copies of themselves, it is inevitable that mistakes will be made. This is what causes lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and other changes to the skin.

Another issue for skin is photo damage. It is problematic for lots of reasons, including DNA mutations and ageing to name but a few. Every time the skin is exposed to UV, it destroys Vitamin A. This light damage to the skin can result not only in ageing but can also cause a number of common skin issues. From oily to dry skin, ageing, congestion, and cell mutations. Not to mention that skin deficient in Vitamin A is actually more vulnerable to the sun.

This brings me nicely to the many myths surrounding Vitamin A. The first is that it dries your skin out. This is not actually true. In the same way that skin deficient in Vitamin A can cause damage to the hyaluronic acid in your skin, the naturally occurring substance that plumps and hydrates and assists cell messengers, it can result in the skin becoming too dry. Vitamin A will fix this as it regulates the cells to produce hyaluronic acid and thus helps hydrate the skin.

Conversely, this deficiency can also manifest as overly oily skin. As Vitamin A helps to regulate cell activity, it ensures that cells behave correctly. In this case it would regulate the cells responsible for controlling the production of sebum.

All cells can convert cosmetic Vitamin A into medical Vitamin A, which is retinoic acid. Using an excellent quality retinol between 0.75 and 1 percent will ensure your skin tolerates the application. Putting retinoic acid topically on the skin will cause issues and certainly severe sun sensitivity.

Interestingly, when Vitamin A is used correctly it can actually protect you against UV damage. Starting slowly and building up to stronger doses ensures you do not get the Retinol Rash.

What is Retinol Rash? I have heard people say they cannot use it because it makes their skin red, sore, and flaky. But this response by the skin actually means you are in desperate need of it and are deficient.

Classic Retinol Rash

Particularly in sun damaged skin, the retinoid receptors are damaged and cannot receive or process Vitamin A. Because there are no receptors on the surface of the cells, a build up occurs around the cell wall and this is what causes irritation of the skin. As you work to slowly build up your usage, your stores build up and the receptors begin to function correctly. This process does vary from individual to individual, but eventually you can use it every day and at a reasonably strong dose without any issues at all.

Some also claim that Vitamin A can cause thinning of the skin, but actually the opposite is true. As the skin becomes healthier it gains density, which is a good thing. This can repair the barrier function, ensuring you do not suffer trans epidermal water loss, also known as TEWL, which is a common cause of skin dysfunction. However, if you rush it, it can cause the skin to flake. This is temporary, so again caution is advised when starting Vitamin A. It can make you sun sensitive when you first begin using it, but regular use will help protect your skin along with a daily high quality SPF 30 or above.

As an Advanced Skin Therapist I am a huge fan of using a great quality retinol. It addresses so many skin concerns including acne, ageing, rosacea, tone and texture, sun damage, and general skin health. Skin that functions correctly with excellent cell health is less likely to develop cell mutations. I believe virtually anyone can use it and get great benefit. Even starting in your twenties will help ensure your skin functions correctly.

My only notes of caution are to always invest in a correct, clinical grade retinol from a skin clinic and get advice about how to use it. I have seen skin where people buy it online, apply it morning and night every day from the start, and do not wear SPF 30 or above, or rely on a foundation with a tiny amount in it. Often this is done without any research. The result is fragile, red, sore, and flaky skin.

Everyone tolerates it differently and I take great pride in saying that my clients never have any adverse reactions and I often start them on 1 percent. It is all about building it up and taking your time to allow the skin to adjust, rather than abusing this powerful ingredient.

Respect the retinol and it will serve you well.

So the question is, why are you not using a great quality Retinol or Vitamin A in your skincare regime?

Take our Skin Quiz to find out more about your skin or just ask Penny AI about retinol!