Why skin barrier repair matters more than resurfacing after 35

As you know, I keep a keen eye on trends in skincare, both in-clinic skin tech and at-home skincare routines. And I’m quite relieved about the latest trend, driven largely by mid-life women (that’s us, ladies, depressing as it may sound!) who are fed up of bracing ourselves for the tingle, or worse, the full-on burning sensation caused by aggressive resurfacing treatments that cause inflammation and the resulting redness and aftermath of sensitivity which, while it may only last a day or so, can completely hinder living our daily lives as we like to do.

Instead, women are seeking treatments and products that correct, respect and strengthen the skin barrier. The focus is changing - it’s not about doing more to the skin, it’s about doing what the skin can biologically tolerate and respond to.

What the skin barrier is and why it matters more after 35

The epidermal barrier (AKA the skin barrier, about which I have written before) is our skin's outermost protective layer and acts as a crucial shield against dehydration, toxins, chemicals, UV radiation and microbes, while preventing excessive water loss from the body. It functions like a brick wall, with dead, keratin-filled skin cells (corneocytes) as the "bricks" and lipids as the "mortar" that cement them together, creating a strong defense system. The skin barrier is formed by the main skin cells of the epidermis - keratinocytes. As keratinocytes age, they move up the epidermis from where they are formed and transform into corneocytes. 

From the age of around 35 our skin starts to change. The epidermal barrier is slower to rebuild, lipid synthesis declines and inflammation lingers longer. Every time we strip away the skin barrier with overly harsh treatments and products we damage our natural ability to protect that precious asset, our skin. 

Why tingling, burning and redness are warning signs, not progress

For years women have been taught that irritation is the entry price for improving our skin texture and glow. Tingling, peeling and redness were framed as proof that something was working. In younger skin the barrier can often rebound quickly enough to hide the damage. In skin over thirty five, that rebound slows. Lipid synthesis declines. Tight junctions loosen. Inflammation lingers instead of resolving. And as we age and enter perimenopause, the chaotic hormone ebb and flow that comes with this (think of it as our second puberty!) exacerbates these issues.

Those of you who have had a strong, stinging response to any active ingredients might previously have thought, ‘well, no pain no gain, this just shows it’s working.’ Not so, it’s a sign you are using a product that your skin can’t handle - maybe yet, maybe never - and this could be down to your skin barrier being compromised.

How inflammation prevents actives from working effectively

Skin does not improve through punishment. Procedures or products that "punish" or severely damage the skin barrier (e.g. harsh alkaline cleansers, overuse of exfoliants, excessive scrubbing) disrupt the skin's natural balance, leading to inflammation, dryness, and a range of issues like acne, eczema, and sensitivity.

Skin improves through cellular cooperation. The various cells in the skin, particularly keratinocytes and immune cells, engage in complex, well-coordinated communication (crosstalk) to maintain tissue balance and a robust barrier. A healthy skin barrier is crucial for proper keratinocyte differentiation (their progress from new cell to corneocytes) and function.

With reduced inflammation and a functional barrier, beneficial actives, such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, can work more effectively to promote repair and overall skin health.

For years midlife women have been taught that visible irritation is the entry price for change. Tingling, peeling and redness were framed as proof that something was working. In younger skin the barrier can often rebound quickly enough to hide the damage. In skin over thirty five, that rebound slows. Lipid synthesis declines. Inflammation becomes sensitised skin and lingers instead of resolving. Ageing is no fun, but supporting our skin as we age is better for us than battering it in a search for lost youth.

SkinGoal products designed to strengthen and protect your skin barrier

Hydration is key to skin barrier health, so topping up your hyaluronic acid is a wise, daily move to make. You can learn more about it in my last blog post: Everything you need to know about hyaluronic acid. My Power HA serum is your daily skin treat that not only feels good, but really does you good. Use it day and night. 

In the morning, seal it in with a moisturiser that does not contain any aggressive actives, such as my Cream Drench or Cream Solar 20. At night, choose my Cream Lift – a luxurious, rich night cream that contains  peptides, plant stem cells and hyaluronic acid – or Cream Revive, with niacinamide (a form of Vitamin B3 that helps build our keratinocytes) and bakuchiol, a plant-based retinol alternative that improves texture and tone while being gentle on sensitive skin.

Any questions, ask Penny AI - she has it nailed!

Love, Penny x